Outer Rome 6/4/09

Today was interesting. It was the day we planned the least, and it was one of the best days on the trip thus far.

We woke up, ate the hostel breakfast (breads, orange juice, canned fruit, ESPRESSO!), and took the metro/tram to Ostia Antica, an ancient ghost-town of a fishing village. It was pretty surreal to walk in these ruins because there weren't too many tourists (it's about an hour outside of Rome), and because these were the first ruins we went to where it felt like people could have actually lived.

There were two-story "apartment buildings (top)," spas, bakeries, and a theatre:





If you go to Rome, I'd really recommend coming here because things aren't as "off-limits" as they are in the rest of the touristy parts of Rome. You can hop over the stones and use the ports to go through the buildings (instead of around them). Hide and go seek, anyone?



After 3 hours of walking around (this was one of the longest walking days, too), we tried to find the ocean from Ostia Antica- it was a fishing village, afterall - but were pretty unsuccessful. After visiting big cities, places where the hills were alive, and ancient ruins, we were aching to see the beach/ocean.

So we hopped back on the tram. One of the stops, Castel Fusano, had a picture next to it that had trees and water, so we took the hint and got off there. A short 10 minute walk took us to the beach, but alas, it was full of rich, fat, over-tanned old people. There's tan, and then there's nasty-tan, people!



The first beach we tried to access was private, and we didn't have a hope of sneaking in (Asian-looking tourists do not blend in in Italy). Fortunately, it was only a five minute walk from there to the public access beach, which had a small food hut that served seafood! We ordered fried calamari, shrimp, squid, and octopus, which really hit the spot after all that walking. It was pretty funny when we paid because the waitress was really surprised when we tipped her. She held out the correct change for the price of the food, pointed to the extra in her hand, and then pointed to herself with the most priceless look on her face. I know you're not supposed to tip in most of Europe, but I read somewhere that you do in Italy. Now I'm not so sure, but oh well. It was worth it.



After eating, we walked down the beach (through the private areas, haha!), and I decided to start my collection of sand from the beaches of the world. I filled a small waterbottle I found on the beach with sand and shells, which I plan to bring home. I have no idea how I'm going to store/display my collection, but I'll figure something out.

We left the beach, and on the way back to the tram was another unplanned surprise. There was a line of people outside a small shack, and curious to see what delicious item was being sold, we took a closer look.



It was fresh fruit with shaved ice (granitas) or yogurt! Pretty tasty, pretty expensive, but pretty worth it.





Refreshed, we walked the rest of the way to the tram station, and tried to go to the catacombs, but they were closed for the night. We apparently got there an hour too late, but thought they were still open because cars/people were still walking up the hill to the site. It was really too bad that they were going to see some famous religious guy named Don Bosco give a talk instead of visiting the catacombs. I really wanted to see them and experience having a nun as my tourguide. Oh well. I'm going to come back so I guess I'll have something to look forward to.

On the way home (slightly disappointing after missing the catacomb experience), David and I picked up some pastries for the sisters and then ate a cheap meal (more souvenier money!) at the kebab place across the street from the hostel. The owner was pretty nice, and when I asked him if the sandwich I ordered had a lot of meat, he laughed and put more in.



Stuffed, we walked back to that Pinnochio store, picked up some things, and then went to the spray paint lady to pick up some more art. She remembered me, which was pretty nice, and let me order before some of the other people who were waiting (a little tip goes a long way). I told her I wanted a night time nature scene and asked her what she could do. She gave me a couple options, but I couldn't decide between a mountain scene or a starry night scene so she combined them both for me. It turned out awesome (right):



We just got back to the hostel, and I'm kind of sad. It's the last night in Rome. This is an understatement, but it's a pretty great city.

Silver lining: We fly out to Athens tomorrow!

Sigh...One Week Left 6/3/09

I have a really bad habit of counting down the days until something good will end. I'm not going to let it get me down, though. It's been too awesome here and I want to enjoy every moment I have.

I don't really miss home. I actually want to live here sometime in the future. I should start looking at engineering programs in Germany. I do miss certain things, though, like the gym, fresh fruit, my dog, and some people. I've been coping, though - 50 push-ups and sit-ups a night have been enough so I don't get that restless leg syndrome crap right before I want to go to sleep.

We saw the Cappuccin Crypt this morning, and it was pretty out-of-this-world. The bones of over 4000 monks and royal children are arranged "artistically" in this crypt, and it's morbid and fascinating at the same time. I wasn't allowed to take pictures, and I didn't even try to here because there weren't too many people visiting the site and the overseeing lady was watching me like no other. Here's a little sample taken by somebody else:



After our little underworld trip we headed off to the Vatican. St. Peter's Basilica was closed in the morning due to a Papal Audience (which is exactly what it sounds like), so we snuck into the city by going past the guards through the post office and other buildings. We got pretty far in, but didn't see anything super interesting - just the place where they print the Vatican Museum booklets and the back of the Museum, which was under construction (cool no-access ship and fountain, though!). Anyway, after a certain point a guard told us to walk back out so we did. That was our little adventure, which conveniently passed the time until the Basilica was open again.

Thanks for the warning about the scams, DHuh! We went to the Vatican Museum at 12:30, and along the way were a BUNCH of people who tried to sell us tours, offering to get us in so we didn't have to wait in line. It's a bunch of bull crap. Don't believe them even if they seem friendly, speak perfect English with American accents, and wear nice cloths. We were able to get tickets and go in without tours or waiting in a line for more than 5 minutes. Don't fall for it.

The Museum was cool, and I got my illegal pictures from inside the Sistine Chapel! Yessir, that's the famous painting of Adam and God nearly touching fingers. It was really surreal to be there. There were a ton of other things we saw there, but I'm too tired to recall anything else of major importance. I'll let my camera be my memory for now.



After being Vatican-ed out, we got in contact with some saints we've been emailing in Rome. They work at a clothing store called New Boy in Rome's Chinatown, so dropped by and had some fellowship with two of the store owners, Sister Huang and Sister Li. Unfortunately, they only speak Italian and Mandarin (neither of which I'm any good at), so I kinda just sat there eating pistachios while David did all the talking. The worst thing is that I can understand enough to know what's going on, but don't know enough to speak a coherent sentence. David was pretty encouraging, though, and I'm glad one of us could speak Chinese. I hope they don't think I'm just a quiet kid who really likes pistachios.

Random fact 4: There are fobby Chinese accents for every language! So far, I've heard a German and an Italian one. It's kinda cute.

We ended up going to dinner after the sisters closed the shop, and ate at a fast food pasta place in the Termini Station. It was cheap with huge portions - I got a chicken leg, pasta pomodoro, bread, and potatoes for about 6 euros (8 or 9 dollars), and could barely finish it all.



Quick Italian fact: The word, "Prego" is like "Bitte" in German. It can mean both "You're welcome" and "Please." I pretty much know the same vocab set in all the languages of the countries we've gone to: Good morning, thank you, please, you're welcome, no, yes, do you speak English, where's the toilet, and numbers. It can get you further than you'd expect.

We went back to the Trevi Fountain after walking them halfway home, and went back out for gelato and souvenier shopping - it's a really nice way to end a tiring day of walking. I got grapefruit and melon this time, and both were perfect again.

We kept walking in the neighborhood, and saw a crowd of people around someone sitting cross-legged on the floor. I'm glad I gave into my curiousity because what I saw was one of the cooler things I saw in Rome thus far. All the people were watching this young girl spray paint pictures of the Colosseum and various nature scenes. She was selling them for only 10 euros, and I had to get one. I've discovered that cheap artwork is one of my weaknesses.



I almost ordered my painting (there was a line), but the girl took a break and we went back to that Pinnochio store I mentioned yesterday. DShaw got something for his brother, and we headed back to where the spray paining artist was. I got an awesome night scene of the Colosseum, and DShaw got the nature scene:





Yep, she's that good, and surprisingly, we were the only ones who tipped her. She made these only with spray paint, her fingers, and index cards. I think DShaw got video of her technique, so I'll upload it in like a year.

It was back to the hotel after this, and I actually got the TV to work. Did something happen back in the States? Bin Laden was on the news, but I couldn't understand it.

Anyway, it looks like we're going to Ostia Antica and maybe the catacombs tomorrow. We also need to do some souvenir shopping (I want another painting!), and plan to drop off some pastries for the sisters.

It was a really relaxing night, and we're finally getting some rest on the trip.

By the way, my feet look realllllllly nasty now. Blisters like no other. I should take a picture.

Walk a mile (or 10) in these shoes indeed.

When In Rome...6/2/09

So we made it to Rome safely. That last post ended in a little bit of a cliffhanger, I know.

We arrived at Rome Ciampino Airport at 8 AM after about 4 hours of sleep total on the bus/plane ride. This is getting to be our pattern when traveling between countries now.

One thing I like about plane rides/airports is meeting new people, having conversations, and then never seeing these people again. It's kinda weird, but it's nice to be able to let your guards down and just talk to strangers.

At Frankfurt Hahn, we met a girl named Kaleigh who lives in Napa (small world, right?). It was just small talk at first - our jobs/plans for next year (she's a scuba instructor, which is really cool!) - but then the convo somehow turned to God and the matter of being saved by faith. It's funny how that's been happening lately; I never used to be the kind of person who freely talked about God.

We ended up sitting in the same row on the plane, too, but I guess the tiredness kicked in and we all just crashed. When we arrived in Rome, we found the buses to the metro stations that we needed to get to on the way to our hostels. Then we exchanged contact info, and parted ways. Who knows? Maybe we'll hang out in Rome together. I've found that if you like to travel, chances are that I'll like you.

This hostel (Hotel Fellini) was pretty easy to find, unlike our French experience. It was pretty nice because we had our own room, but then again, we were paying a bit more (about 40 euros a night). Our room has two beds, a TV, and a private bath, and hot water (I've never appreciated hot showers more than on this trip). Plus, breakfast is included.

Random note: I actually saw pickpocket action today! I was on the metro, and from the train I saw a lady swat the hand of a thief because it was reaching into her pocket. That better not happen to me, knock on wood.

Not wanting to waste any time, we dropped our bags off, went out to get 4 day metro passes, and headed toward the Trevi Fountain. It's beautiful, and people throw coins over their shoulders into the fountain to ensure that they'll come back to Rome someday. I still need to do this because I want to come back!



From the Trevi Fountain, we went to the Pantheon. It was pretty awesome inside:



...and we saw Raphael's tomb, which was one of the sites in Angels and Demons. I'm really glad I read the book and saw the movie before I came here. I don't think we'll have time to follow the Path of Illumination, though. I gotta leave some stuff for next time...



We were pretty starved by this point - one of the things about discount airlines is that they don't give you snacks or peanuts or anything - so we got a small breakfast of croissants and coffee. I'm more of a tea drinker, but I'm already hooked on the espressos here.

Next stop was Piazza Navona. A great feature of this place is its artwork. The Piazza is magnificent in itself - I love the fountains and the symmetry to the layout of the place, but the artwork is what made this location memorable. Artists and art students were even sitting in the middle of the piazza, sketching in books. I'm going to have to come back here and buy something. I would have gotten it when we were there, but I didn't want to ruin any paintings/sketches I got.



Same goes for this woodcraft store, where they were selling Pinnochio figurines (I didn't realize until today that he's Italian) and other hand-carved wood pieces.

Crossing the Ponte Sant' Angelo bridge took us to the Castel Sant' Angelo, which was pretty cool; it's the first castle we've been in since we got to Europe! From the inside there are great views of St. Peter's Basillica, which is the tallest building in Rome. Fun fact 1: Rome has no modern skyline because nothing can be built taller than this religious monument.



There's so much history here! We saw last prison (supposedly) where the Apostles Peter and Paul were kept before they were martyred - Peter was crucified upside-down. Legend has it that a fountain sprang up in the prison before their deaths so they could baptize the other prisoners. Interesting...

We kept walking along the River Tevere (the Tiber River), snacked on bruschetta and pizza, and climbed the steps of the Monumento A Vittorio Emanuele:



This thing is pretty big, and you can see the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill clearly from it. I guess you can figure out where we went next.

There was some sort of parade or festival, but we got there right when it ended and were still able to hit up these major Rome attractions. The Colosseum is smaller than I expected it to be, and I'm surprised I didn't hear about Palatine Hill before visiting it. In my opinion, it's the more worth-it attraction.



I liked it because you have a little bit of ancient history and modern art - in the midst of the ruins are evolving white sculptures that seem out of place, yet somehow appropriate:



I don't know if they're permanent features of the site, but I could see how people would either love them or hate them.

Fun facts 2 and 3: In ancient Rome people drank the blood of gladiators to cure epilepsy and the blood of Christians to heal all sorts of things.

Anyway, this is when we headed back to Hotel Fellini for much needed showers and a short rest before dinner. We headed back out to get some pasta, and disappointingly, the place we went to was all out of seafood. Shucks. I really wanted to try a clam linguini, which I've heard is pretty awesome here. I ended up getting a pasta with garlic, pepper, and herbs, which was surprisingly light and tasty. We've been eating too much heavy food in Europe, so it was nice to not feel a heart attack coming on after a meal for a change.

David and I started talking about our friends and experiences about talking to them about God. After we ate, we kept talking and walking, visiting the Spanish Steps (really peaceful at night!), and the Trevi Fountain again (a totally different experience at night!). The fountain is amazing because they light it up at night, and locals and tourists crowd the area.



Last highlight of the day: Yay for non-lactose Gelato! The watermelon/grapefruit combination was really refreshing, and I think I'm going to have to come back for some more tomorrow.

We're back at the hostel now, and ready to go to sleep. It's pretty clear that it was a long, but fantastic day.

Tentative plan for tomorrow: The Vatican and the Catacombs